Every year the Roma celebrate and worship their patron saint, Saint Sarah, also known as Sara-la-Kali (Sara the black), and Mary Jacobé in the coastal village of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer in the Camargue region of the Provence, Southern France.
Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, the 'Saint Marys of the Sea', is a small fishing village located on the south-central coast of Mediterranean France in the Camargue region of Bouches-du-Rhone. Archaeological excavations and local legends indicate that the site has been venerated as a holy place by a succession of cultures including the Celts, Romans, Christians, and most recently, the Romania Gypsies.
Once a sacred site of the Celtic threefold water goddess, the holy spring was known as Oppidum Priscum Ra. Superseded by a Roman temple dedicated to Mithras in the 4th century BC, the site was later taken over by the Christians. Historical sources mention a church from the 9th century but very little is known of the town's history prior to the 14th century because of its remote location. Neither is it known precisely when and why the local church became the most sacred place of the Gypsies sometime after their arrival in Europe in the early 1400's.
The Gypsy pilgrimage of Sainte Sarah is a unique, spiritual festival, vibrant and colourful, offering a deeper insight into the lives and culture of this ancient nomadic tribe, we call gypsies, the Roma.
In French, Gypsies are called
Gitans (from Spanish
gitano, short form of
egiptano (Egyptian) - the same error about their origins underlies the English word "gypsy"). The Gitan pilgrimage takes place in Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer on 24 and 25 May to celebrate Mary Jacobé (Sara-la-Kali). A second pilgrimage celebrating Mary Salomé takes place on the Sunday closest to the 22 October.
There are several stories connected to the dark faced Saint Sarah, and especially her origins offer some interesting tales.
Legend has it she was the servant of the other locally celebrated Mary Saints. It is believed that at the beach they erected an altar to pray, but soon thereafter they dispersed. The relics of Mary Magdalene, Mary Salome and Mary Jacob are said to be kept in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and each has their own annual pilgrimage. These women are believed to be the first people to witness to the empty tomb just before the resurrection of Jesus, and especially the Mary Magdalene cult is very wide-spread in the Provence.
According to one local legend, after the resurrection of Christ, Mary Magdalene, Marie-Salome, Marie-Jacobe, Lazarus and several other disciples were forced, in 45 AD, to flee the Holy Land by boat. Following a perilous journey across the Mediterranean Sea, the boat eventually landed near the present day village of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, where the passengers went ashore.
What next happened to the passengers is not specified in the legend but two of them, Marie-Salome and Marie-Jacobe, became, in time, objects of veneration to the local people. The church, however, enshrines three images, the additional one being of Sara-la-Kali, whose origin and identity are quite mysterious.
An alternative story of Sara-la-Kali states her as a pagan of noble birth, later converted to the faith of Abraham, a powerful local queen who welcomed the tired travelers from the Holy Land, while other sources suggest she may have been an ancient pagan goddess or a black Egyptian woman who was the servant of Christ's mother Mary.
Another intriguing explanation, believes her to be the local, Christianized manifestation of the Indian goddess "Kali". The ceremony in Saintes-Maries closely parallels the annual processions in India, the country in which the Romani are believed to have originated. During the Indian pilgrimage celebrations, statues of the Indian goddess Durga, also named Kali, are immersed into water. Durga, a consort of Shiva, is usually represented with a black face, as is Saint Sarah. The Indian goddess Durga or Kali is the goddess of creation, sickness and death.
Whatever the explanation, the three female statues are the subject of the fascinating Pelerinage des Gitans, or 'Pilgrimage of the Gypsies', held each year on May 24 and 25.
During the weeks preceding the festival, many thousands of gypsies flock to the little village from the far corners of Europe. It is a time of much celebration, of dancing and feasting. The gypsies, being a homeless and wandering people, look upon the festival as a time of religious worship and also as a time to visit with friends and relatives whom they have not seen since previous festivals.
On the afternoon of the 24th the church is filled with pilgrims and surrounded by thousands more. They have come to witness the arrival of the saints. First, the statues of the two Marys, stored in an ancient box containing other relics, are lowered from their storage place high in the church. As the reliquary slowly descends, the crowd of pilgrims, overcome with religious fervor, reaches up their hands, even holding up babies at arm's length, in the belief that to touch the relics before they reach the ground is to receive a wondrous healing and protection from misfortune.
After the statues of the two Mary's have been revealed, the statue of Sara is brought forth from an underground crypt. Carried on the shoulders of the gypsies and accompanied by the boisterous pilgrims, Sara is taken on a procession to the sea. Returned to the church, Sara and the two Mary's are venerated throughout the evening by the many pilgrims passing through the shrine.
The following morning, the 25th of May, the statues of the two Mary's are placed in a boat and then taken upon a grand and colorful procession to and into the sea. In the afternoon a farewell ceremony is given to the saints, the gypsies begin to depart, and the village of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer again settles to its quiet life.
Sources:
Sacred Sitesand
Benvengudo